Saturday, December 28, 2019

Baldpate Mtn (3,780 ft) 9-29-19

Distance: 8.76 mi.
Elevation: 2,357 ft (overall) 3,579 ft (total)
Time: 1:56 (West Peak) 2:28 (Summit) 3:13 (West Peak) 4:45 (Total)
Trails: Appalachian Trail

New England Hundred Highest Finish!!!

A day after re-hiking Elephant Mountain I was back into Maine to hike my last peak in my quest for the New England Hundred Highest. I picked Baldpate Mountain as a finial peak after talking with other hikers in my travels when discussing what peaks I had left. Multiple other hikers suggested this peak. It would be a nice hike plus would have some of the best views of my final peaks. I'm glad I listened to the other hikers and finished on this peak as I was a great hike. I didn't want to finish when there weren't any leaves left on the trees, so trying to finish before foliage was done was a priority for me. I ended up hiking this peak just before peak foliage I think, but it wound up being a great day for foliage anyways.

Like most people, I hiked this peak using the Appalachian Trail from the parking lot in Grafton Notch. This is the same parking lot used for Old Speck as well. You just cross the street near the entrance to the parking lot. The trail starts off nice and gentle after using some elevated foot bridges over a brook. Being the Appalachian Trail, it's in great shape and clearly marked. Pretty quickly the trail starts to climb out of the notch, but there isn't really anything steep for quite a while. The trail is a gentle grade for quite a while until it levels out after passing Hedgehog Hill just north of the trail. Here the trail stays mostly level until the spur to the Baldpate Shelter.

An early section of trail

After the shelter spur the trail does get significantly steeper. While steeper, it still has some small switchbacks and is manageable without being to tiring for most hikers. And since this is the Appalachian Trail, there are also a number is good stone steps that are nice and stable to help you gain this elevation quicker. It felt like this climb up to the West Peak went by pretty quickly to me. Once you reach the West Peak, there is a nice view with a small open area just past this summit. This afforded some good views over to the main peak. Here I took a nice little break and had a conversation with an older couple who was just out for a hike to somewhere nice instead of to any particular peak.

Creative stone steps

From the West Peak I looked at the ledges heading up the main peak wondering where the trail went. I expected that at least some of the trail must go around that is it looked pretty steep. It turns out that the trail goes pretty much right up it on the left side of the open area as you are looking at it.

Dropping down off the West Peak is probably the steepest part of the hike. It even includes a ladder down over one steep, smooth, tall section of rock. There are also some other rocky scrambles on the way down into the col between the peaks. Once down into the col you will come out of the trees to cross a small bog on some foot bridges. This then leads you onto mostly open exposed rock until the main peak. Down in the col there were a few wet or muddy areas to navigate as well. This was probably partly due to yesterday's rain, but based on the tracks leading through the surrounding bushes they are frequently there. While I admit there could be some more bog bridges or stepping stones through here, please try to stay as close to the middle of the trail as possible so that you don't trample the vegetation through here like others have.

View from the west peak

Ladder along the trail

Climbing up to the main peak means starting up the open slabs. There was just a bit of water running down them in places today, but they seemed to have plenty of grip. I imagine that during more heavy rain or in winter this area could get slick though. While this section is very open, there were plenty of routes up the rocks that didn't require any scrambles or overly difficult spots. It's a pretty fun and quick climb up to the summit plateau. After the climb up the rocks the summit mostly levels off. This makes for a nice easy walk to the true high point. There are some small stone walls built along the sides of the trail to help keep people off the fragile vegetation through here.

Climbing the exposed rock of the main peak

Interesting layers of rock on the ascent

I'm not much for celebrations, so when I reached the summit, I didn't really have anything planned nor did I come up with anything special to do to celebrate. It was nice however to have the summit all to myself while I was there. After a nice break and plenty of pictures, I headed back down to the large cairn just before the climb down into the col. I think the views are better here so I took another long break and more pictures. I'm not really one for selfies, but I decided I should probably have at least one picture of myself on on peak number 100.

Baldpate summit

View from the summit

View west near the summit

On the summit of #100

I still had plenty of time so the hike back down was fun and casual. It was a great day and I was in a good mood. I made the short side trip to the Baldpate Shelter, but decided not to do the loop over Table Rock. Unfortunately though, near the upper junction with the Table Rock Trail my foot got snagged on a broken root and I fell to the ground. I tried to catch myself with my trekking poles, but one of them went into a small hole and bent. When I straightened it back out, it broke just as I expected. It was a bit of a bummer to break my pole since I think I have used the same ones for almost all of my hundred highest peaks as well as multiple other 4Ks, but they have had a lot of miles put on them and I think I got my monies worth.

Baldpate from the col between the peaks

Baldpate shelter

My broken trekking pole

Foot bridges just before reaching the road again

Once back to my truck I set down my gear and changed into some dry comfy clothes. The one thing I did have ready as a way to celebrate my finish though was a giant brownie that I bought before making the trip to Maine for the weekend. I didn't plan to eat the whole thing as it was pretty big, but I did make sure to eat a pretty good portion though. Before too long I put everything into the truck and started the drive home. It was still another 4 hours or more until I would be home.

A giant brownie to celebrate my finish

Google Earth representation of the hike

For all the pictures from the hike, just go to my gallery on SmugMug

Saturday, November 16, 2019

Elephant Mtn (3,772 ft) 9-28-19

Distance: 3.54 mi.
Elevation: 1,012 ft (overall) 1,103 ft (total)
Time: 1:30 (Summit) 2:52 (Total)
Trails: Bushwhack

Four years ago I tried to hike this mountain, but due to a lack of time to properly research it and looking at one incorrect map I made it to the wrong peak. I found out about a week after that hike that I went to the wrong peak and would have to come back. This peak isn't really near much else so I haven't had a chance to get back to the area to hike it yet. And since I didn't want to finish here, I needed to make it #99 on the New England Hundred Highest list.

Recent reports have said that the road leading into the start of the traditional bushwhack has gotten pretty washed out, but it sounds like some people have been able to make it through. Having a full-size pickup and a sense of adventure I was willing to try making it up the road. I didn't find it too bad, but there was one spot that I got out to make sure where I needed to go in order to avoid any potential sharp edges on the culvert I would be driving over. I would think at this time most any suv should be able to make it through with care, but I wouldn't try going all the way with a car.

Worst section of the road leading to the bushwhack.
The picture doesn't do it justice

Trip reports from this year also talked about the lower part of the bushwhack having been heavily cut with the trees left on the ground. This basically wiped out the old route. A few recent reports though mention a new route some have taken that follows a drainage for while before coming out near the top of the slash/cut. This route turns off the old logging road at the start of the bushwhack earlier and at the time was marked by a small cairn that was built.

The start of the new route I used on the way up

This route proved to be pretty easy to follow early on and is already showing signs of being a path. Although it does currently lead to one thick section of trees that was harder to push through before reaching the slash. Crossing the slash here was pretty short and I found it pretty easy. I found this route came out just below where I came to a brook that I crossed the last time here. This time I saw a more defined path that didn't cross the brook and I stayed on that.

Getting ready to cross the top of the slash

The path was easy to follow except for a couple marshy areas that were basically wet grassy areas. The path kind of disappears in these spots and you have to guess a little bit and pay close attention to where you are going to get back onto the path. Continuing up the path gets to a thicker patch of woods where care is needed just before coming to the high swampy area. I was expecting something like the marshy areas the path had already gone through, but it had more short trees, debris, and running water and mud than I thought. Following what looked like a bit of a path from logging though lead me to the herd path where it enters back into the trees.

The boggy area high up

From here to the summit the path was easy to follow and it didn't take too long to make it to the summit. I spent some time at the summit, but with no views and the chance of a late day shower I didn't stay too long. On the way down I saw what looked like another herd path turning off to the right. I didn't explore this, but I wonder if it is something of a more direct route or if maybe it could be used to avoid the slash all together or the high level swampy area at least. I'd like to go back and explore more, but it isn't likely to happen soon.

The summit with canister and sign on the right

A marshy area along the route

On the way down I followed the path back to the brook near where I crossed the slash. I decided that I wanted to see how bad the slash was to see if other hikers might have been exaggerating. They haven't been. I followed the old path until it reached the slash where it was apparent a straight route wouldn't be easy. I decided to explore some and see if by following the edge I might be able to find better walking and possibly an easier route for others. While I was able to go easily to start, it didn't stay that way. Following the edge came to thick enough trees that you still had to walk over the slash because you couldn't go around it. I then tried to pick easier routes or head for thinner areas of the slash, this helped some but also angled me so that I would spend more time in the slash which wouldn't really save much effort. Finally I decided to just straight line it to the old logging road/path that the traditional route followed. Once on that I made the easy walk back to the truck.

I wonder if with the new changes a more direct route might emerge that would avoid the wet areas and the slash altogether, possibly linking up with whatever that herd path I saw was. I'd like to do more research and looking to see if this might be a new option. This hike is relatively short in distance and time, but the route might still be able to be improved.

I crossed this brook the last time here, you shouldn't

Coming down through the slash near the old route

Google Earth representation of the hike

For all the pictures from the hike, just go to my gallery on SmugMug

Mt. Nancy (3,926 ft) & Vose Spur (3,862 ft) 9-21-19 thru 9-22-19

DAY 1

Distance: 12.3 mi.
Elevation: 2,933 ft (overall) 3,481 ft (total)
Time: 1:26 (Nancy Cascades) 2:43 (Start of Bushwhack) 3:27 (Mt. Nancy) 3:56 (End of Bushwhack) 5:55 (Camp)
Trails: Nancy Pond Trail, Bushwhack, Nancy Pond Trail, Carrigain Notch Trail

For a while now when thinking about hiking Mt. Nancy I've wanted to do it as a loop continuing down Nancy Pond Trail past the pond and then come back through Carrigain Notch.With only a few peaks left before finishing up the NEHH, it didn't make a lot of sense to drive here twice to hike Vose Spur as well when my loop was going to have my walk past the start of the bushwhack for it. So I decided to combine the two hikes into one bigger multi-day hike instead.

I parked at the Nancy Pond trail head on Route 302, which was more full than I expected when I showed up. After getting all my gear into and on my pack I headed up the trail which starts off pretty easy and gives you a nice warm up. There is one small brook to cross an then further up you'll also cross the bigger Nancy Brook which was a quite a low level today. There are some big rocks here that you should be able to use to cross over with a more normal flow rate. After this crossing the trail turns left and starts to get steeper. Before too long the trail goes higher up the hillside and back away from the brook on a newer section of trail that keeps the trail away from where it will get the damage from really high water levels.

Gentle hiking along the Nancy Pond Trail

Crossing of Nancy Brook

There was very little water coming down over Nancy Cascades today, but I can see why many people hike up the trail just to the falls when water levels are higher. It's a pretty tall cascade with lots of places for the water to divert and make some interesting patterns in the water. After crossing the brook below the cascades, the trail quickly gets much steeper and rougher with more roots and rocks. You gain elevation quickly this way though and it doesn't take too long before things level back out again before you get to the ponds.

Nancy Cascades with low flow

As the trail levels out it stays kind of rough with plenty of roots to walk over. There will also be a number of foot bridges as there are plenty of sections of damp ground along the trail that you wouldn't want the trail going directly through. Today while I hiked through here, it was interesting to see evidence of a moose that had walked through here too. You could see where it had walked next to the foot bridges and sunk right in. Apparently moose don't like foot bridges. The trail brings you right up to Nancy Pond before then following the side and then leading you do Norcross Pond.

Norcross Pond

Just before the outlet of Norcross Pond is a small open area with signs indicating no camping there. To the right it looks like there is a trail, this is actually the start of the herd path to Mt. Nancy. Right off there appears to be another fork in the path and you will want to go left here. From this point on I found the herd path to be easy to follow. It was steeper than I thought it would be and also a bit narrower/tighter than I thought as well. This path goes pretty much straight up the mountain without much for making it an easier route. It does level back out nicely shortly before the summit. The summit of Mt. Nancy as a surprisingly good view for a wooded peak. You can see pretty clearly from north to east with parts of Crawford Notch and the Presidentials to other smaller peaks to the east.

Mt. Nancy herd path goes left here

Another left to follow the herd path

One of the easiest parts of the herd path

Panoramic view from Mt. Nancy

View from Mt. Nancy

Once back down to the pond, there was now only one other hiker here so it was a bit quieter and more remote feeling. I talked with the other hiker and his dog some before we both parted way in opposite directions. I headed down the Nancy Pond Trail which has a nice gentle grade with smooth solid footing all the way down to the bottom. There was only one wet spot along the trail while going downhill. After stopping here, I happened to notice that there was also an old metal pipe coming out of the ground with water flowing through it (not the main source of the mud though).

View from the outlet of Norcross Pond

A lower section of Nancy Pond Trail

Once the trail crosses Norcross Brook the forest immediately changes. The trees and other vegetation change and open up and the trail gets pretty flat following mostly old railroad grades from the logging days of J. E. Henry. This section makes for some smooth easy hiking while going through a nice remote section of the Whites. I only saw one pair of hikers on the trail through here until I got close to Stillwater Junction.

Norcross Brook crossing

Tree tunnel

Rather than just stop near the intersection with the Carrigain Notch Trail so I would be closer to Vose Spur in the morning, I did the extra miles to the end of the Carrigain Notch Trail until Stillwater Junction which is at the junction with the Wilderness and Shoal Pond Trails. I've hiked past here in the past and wanted to get back to this junction mostly just for redlining purposes. It's also a nice area and I was figuring I could find a good place to camp near the Carrigain Branch so I would have good access to water. So after filtering some water at Stillwater Junction, I headed back to a nice campsite I walked past on the way there. There was also one pair of hikers in the area, but it ended up being a nice quiet area to camp.

Tent setup at camp for the night

I ended up going to bed earlier than expected tonight since it gets very dark deep in the forest and I had no plan to have any sort of fire. I had a headlamp, but didn't really bring much to read/do, so I basically got bored of sitting around. In the end I ended up laying there for a while though until I did finally fall asleep since it was so much earlier than normal for me.

Google Earth representation of day 1

DAY 2

Distance: 13.6 mi.
Elevation: 1,827 ft (overall) 2,394 ft (total)
Time: 1:38 (Start of Bushwhack) 3:11 (Vose Spur) 4:06 (End of Bushwhack) 5:33 (Sawyer River Road) 6:08 (Route 302) 6:29 (Total)
Trails: Carrigain Notch Trail, Bushwhack, Carrigain Notch Trail, Signal Ridge Trail, Road

Between having two kids and getting up early for work everyday long enough, I didn't need an alarm to make sure I would be up early today. After waking up and just laying there for a bit, I got up, got dressed and started to get some of my gear ready to pack up already. While heating things up for breakfast I did more packing. After eating my breakfast I took down my tent and put it into its stuff sack. Even with taking my time at camp, I was still on the trail easily by 8am.

The hike back along the Carrigain Notch Trail was a great warm up for the day. Nice smooth trail with mostly level grades. After passing the junction with the Nancy Pond Trail the grade of the trail increases some, but still stays relatively easy. The trail progressively gets away from the old RR grades and gets narrower and a bit more rocky.

Starting the morning on the Carrigain Notch Trail

The high point of Carrigain Notch is also the boundary of the Pemigewasset Wilderness. I took a short little break here as the morning was a bit more humid than I expected it to be. From here, the start of the Vose Spur bushwhack isn't that far of a hike. I found what I believed to be the start of the whack when there was a small cairn next to the trail. The path leading from it wasn't super defined so I did a short walk without my pack to see if just around the corner was the boulder that most people reference as being near the start. Sure enough, it was nearby. That is one downside of coming in the direction I was instead of hiking in from Sawyer River Road like most others do.

Bushwhack boulder

The start of the Vose Spur bushwhack

Before starting the bushwhack I picked a tree off the trail a bit that I could hang my tent and sleeping bag/pad up in. I would be coming back to this spot and it made no sense to carry it all up with me. This was probably the smartest thing I did today as this made my pack much lighter and smaller. I would have caught on so many more branches on this route if I hadn't done this.

The bushwhack for me was pretty easy to follow, but I did find a few places lower down where you had to look ahead a bit to see if the path you were taking was the proper one or if it looked like it might peter out soon. At times there was some old flagging around, but it wasn't everywhere so I wouldn't rely on that alone to keep you headed in the right direction.

A more open section of the bushwhack

Most people reference the end of this bushwhack to be very steep, but the rest of it was steeper than I expected. Pretty much from the start, the path is steep. There really aren't any breaks from this either until just before the actual summit. Above the talus field the path does really get the steepest. It is steep enough that it wouldn't be a normal trail anywhere else in the whites. It also gets pretty narrow as it works along the side of some steep sections as well. You wouldn't want to take a spill here.

When I got to the talus field there was a piece of flagging where the trail entered it. I looked up the field to find some flagging or a cairn as others have mentioned for where to enter back into the woods. I could see both of these above me and just to the right as well as some other flagging off to the left. I picked the route to the left as it looked a bit easier to get to. On the way down I picked the route to the right. It turns out that once back into the trees both routes connect back up and the one on the right when headed up is a bit shorter and easy, so I would go that way when climbing.

Looking up the talus field

Steep section of bushwhack near the top

The summit was as viewless as expected and I didn't see the old folding chair I've seen pictures of. So after a little break, a snack, and some pictures I headed back down until I got to the talus field where I took a longer break and enjoyed the only views of the day.

The summit and canister

View from the talus field

After getting back to the trail and grabbing my tent and sleeping gear, it was time to head to Sawyer River Road and back to the truck. The trail through here is easy to follow with no steep sections. There were some spots where it was impressive to see what mother nature has done through here (mostly with water). What looks like entire streams of just rocks crossing the trail.

A river of stone that crosses the trail

10 foot deep hole next to the trail

With it being a bit humid today and the bushwhack being steep the entire length of it, I was running low on water. Luckily I made it to a section of Carrigain Brook that had water near the intersection with the Signal Ridge Trail. Up to this point the nearby brook had been dry. I filtered enough to get me back to the truck and keep on hiking out. Around now is when I started seeing other hikers which I hadn't seen any of so far. It seemed a number of them were hiking Mt. Carrigain today.

Foot bridges along the Signal Ridge Trail

Time to filter water again at Carrigain Brook

Once down to Sawyer River Road I took a quick break and prepared for the about 3 miles walk back to my truck. I didn't try to hitch a ride with anyone driving down the road, but there ended up only being maybe 4 vehicles that passed by me before I got to Route 302. There was plenty of traffic on 302, but again I didn't try to hitch a ride and I was on the wrong side of the road anyways. In the end the road walk was a bit long and boring, but you can do it relatively quickly. The biggest downside is the hard surface of the road on tired feet. The dirt next to it might be softer, but it quickly slants away from the road which would make you walk lopsided.

Time for the road walk back to the truck

Google Earth representation of day 2

TOTALS
Distance: 25.9 mi.
Elevation Gain: 5,875 ft (total)
Time: 12:24

Google Earth representation of the hike

For all the pictures from the hike, just go HERE