Friday, December 26, 2014

North Brother (4,151 ft) 9-9-14

Distance: 8.88 mi.
Elevation: 3,088 ft (overall) 3,307 ft (total)
Time: 3:46 (summit) 6:43 (total)
Trails: Marston Trail

For my second full day in Baxter State Park this weekend, my plan was to hike North Brother. I had thought about hiking Mt. Coe, South Brother, and Fort Mtn. as well today, but figured I would play it safe and just enjoy North Brother (the only 4K of the group) after how tiring yesterday was.

The trail head has a nice view looking up Doubletop Mtn on the other side of the river. And as you head out onto the trail, it's pretty easy to start. There is one small stream crossing, but it is very shallow. The trail gradually gets a bit steeper for a while, but not hard. It then levels back out some before hitting the junction with the Mt. Coe Trail.

Early bit of trail

Steep section of trail

From here, the trail works gradually up to a small pond. After going around the pond, the trail then turns to head straight up onto the ridge next to the pond. This was the steepest part of the hike, but there is also a trail reroute in the works here, so that might change. While coming up this section, I saw something dark in the trees ahead of me. I thought it was just a root ball or some other kind of debris in the trees, but then it started to come towards me. It was a small black bear (probably 125-150 lbs). He wasn't running at me, but it was faster than a casual "what's that over there" stroll. I made him aware of my presence and told him he didn't want to come any further down the trail (well I didn't want him to). After a couple pauses and steps closer, he finally went off to the side of the trail and down over the ridge. Normally I'd want to grab a photo of a bear, but when even a small one is about 25 feet away, that isn't your first thought.

I continued up onto the ridge where the trail levels back out again before coming to the upper junction with the Mt. Coe Trail. I turned left and headed up the rest of the Marsten Trail to North Brother. Soon the summit could be seen through the trees. As the trail goes along, it gets steeper and narrower. It could use a good brush trimming, but it is also getting very eroded. From talking with a park ranger, they are looking into the best option about this.

The trail coming up out of the trees

Before too long you start to come up out of the trees though. As you do, there are some large rocks to get up and over or require a hop from one to another, but not many. The trail soon brings you up to the summit. While taking in the beautiful views, I thought about making the bushwhack over to Fort Mtn, but stuck with my initial plan of just one peak today. I'll come back soon and grab all four peaks here to get the three on the New England 100 Highest list as well.

After a nice long time at the summit, it was time to head back down the same route I came up. The hike went well with no bear encounters and soon I was back at my car. The day was nice enough and I had enough time that I explored some of the Tote Road and nearby locations while on the way back to my campsite.

View northeast from the summit

Katahdin from the summit

View of Coe, South Brother, and Doubletop

For all the pictures from the hike, just go HERE

Mt. Katahdin, Baxter Peak (5,267 ft) 9-8-14

Distance: 10.105 mi.
Elevation: 4,161 ft (overall) 4,376 ft (total)
Time: 5:47 (Baxter Peak) 9:25 (total)
Trails: Hunt Trail, Baxter Peak Cutoff, Saddle Trail

My plan for hiking the four thousand footers in Baxter State Park was to do one long weekend in the park. Being 6.5 hours from home, this would cut down on driving substantially. I was going to stay at Katahdin Stream Campground in the park. On day one my plan was to would hike Mt. Katahdin hitting both Hamlin Peak and Baxter Peak. Well, that WAS the plan.

Bridge

Katahdin Stream Falls

Starting from the campground on the Hunt Trail (the northern end of the AT), it was a gentle warm up. The trail is pretty smooth and gradually gains a bit of elevation. Before long you pass the trail to The Owl and then cross over the stream on a bridge. There is an outhouse here as well giving you one last sheltered bathroom break spot. From here, the trail starts the real climbing. It's not difficult to start, but it does mark the last of the easy stuff. Soon you pass the impressive Katahdin Stream Falls where are right next to the trail. And a short distance after that, you are rewarded with your first views of the day.

After this, things get more challenging. Sections of trail get steeper at times, and large rocks become more frequent. Sometimes you can go around, but in many place you must go over. As you come out of the trees, you come to even more boulders. In a few places there are metal rungs or handholds to help you up and over. Not as many as I expected though from past descriptions. It can seem daunting, but I didn't find anything through here to be dangerous nerve wracking. I even skipped a bypass that I didn't even notice while taking the more direct route.

View above treeline

Climb up the Gateway to the Table Lands

Next you come up to a level section just before the climb up through the Gateway. This is a great spot for views and a break. It does show you just how much steep rocky climbing you have left though. Coming up the Gateway is tricky at times. While rock climbing experience isn't needed, it wouldn't hurt. It's helpful to be able to pick out a route ahead of time and know how to pull yourself up. This was probably the hardest and slowest part of the climb, but it was still fun. Once at the top it was time for another well deserved break.

Hamlin Peak from Saddle Trail

From here to the top, just going over the Tablelands would be an easy finish to the summit with gradual terrain. My plan was to head over the Baxter Peak Cutoff though and head towards Hamlin Peak first. On the way over this trail, I was starting to feel tired from the steep climbs so far. It also felt a bit warm in the exposed sun. The trail itself though was pretty easy with only a few places where you need to hop between rocks. Once at the Saddle Trail, I sat down in the shade of a large rock there. Feeling the effects of the hike so far, I spent nearly 20 minutes resting and debating if I wanted to do the hike over to Hamlin and back. I finally decided that if I was taking this long to make up my mind, I shouldn't do it and should just save my energy for the tricky descent.

On the way up to Baxter Peak, I ran through different scenarios that could get me up Hamlin Peak without needing another trip to Baxter State Park, but non of them were going to work if I still wanted to get North Brother tomorrow. So after settling on the fact that I would another trip up here, I enjoyed the view from the summit and rested for a while. The Knife Edge certainly looks impressive from here and I feel I'll be back some time to hike it.

Baxter Peak summit

Knife Edge

Coming down through the boulders

Taking my time and picking my route carefully, the descent down the mountain went smoothly. I passed one northbound thru-hiker who was about to finish his trip from GA, but didn't know it until I saw him back down in the campground. Once back to my campsite it was nice to cook up some supper and rest in front of the fire. It was good not needing to drive anywhere after the hike, but a shower would have been nice too.

For all the pictures from the hike, just go HERE

Extended Presidential Traverse 8-21-14 thru 8-23-14

DAY 1

Distance: 9.41 mi.
Elevation: 3,207 ft (overall) 4,958 ft (total)
Time: 2:35 (Jackson) 4:12 (Pierce) 5:16 (Eisenhower 6:50 (Hut)
Trails: Webster-Jackson Trail, Webster Cliff Trail, Crawford Path, Eisenhower Loop

Having done a Presidential Traverse before from the north, I decided this one would be from the south. I would also throw in an out and back hike of Mt. Isolation on day two of the hike, making the actual Presidential portion 2 days of the hike. This would be a great way for me to get 9 peaks done in 3 days to help me on my goal of the New England 67 in one year.

I parked the car near the Highland Center and started off of the Webster-Jackson Trail. Knowing today would be a significant amount of elevation gain anyways, I opted to not hit Mt. Webster on the way. Everything went smoothly on the climb up to the summit of Mt. Jackson where I saw my first hikers of the day. A pair of thru-hikers that were trying to figure out which trail went which way. I helped them out, and they were on their way.

The hike to Mizpah hut was quick and easy. Shortly before the hut though, I came around a corner to see a family of Ruffed Grouse on the edge of the trail. I stopped and backed up some so I could get a picture. Once I did that and they settled back down, I tried to go past them on the other side of the trail. I hope they get a bit more timid of humans in the future. After a quick rest stop at the hut, it was up the short climb to Mt. Pierce.

After Pierce, I was off up the range to next get Mt. Eisenhower. As the way up the Eisenhower Loop Trail, it started to lightly rain. I could see the rain building around me, but it didn't look heavy in either direction. Once at the summit it was just enough to warrant putting on my rain coat. With the light rain and the fact that I think the summit of Eisenhower is a bit boring (bald, smooth and rounded, and with only a summit cairn for features), I only spent enough time here to talk to a couple hikers and take a few pictures.

I was headed for the Lakes of the Clouds Hut now. Having not been on the Crawford Path around the summit of Mt. Monroe, I went that way. Allowing me to check in at the hut and drop off some gear if I decided to hike Monroe this afternoon. Once at the at I did just that and went back outside for a bit. I was thinking about doing the quick climb up Monroe, but decided that since it was still raining off and on that it wouldn't be worth doing tonight. I headed back inside, put on some dry clothes, and talked with some other hikers (including the two thru-hikers I saw on Mt. Jackson).

Early section of trail

Today's trek seen from Mt. Jackson

Family of Ruffed Grouse next to the trail

View from Pierce

Light rain on the summit of Eisenhower

Coming to the hut

DAY 2

Distance: 10.3 mi.
Elevation: 432 ft (overall) 3,429 ft (total)
Time: 2:52 (Isolation) 6:08 (Hut) 6:25 (Monroe) 6:43 (Hut)
Trails: Crawford Path, Camel Trail, Davis Path, Isolation Spur, Monroe Loop

The plan for today was to head out from the hut over towards Boott Spur and then down to Mt. Isolation, then come back the same route. I would then make the quick hike up Mt. Monroe as well. The route started off on the Camel Trail. You can tell is it used less than some others in the area, but it was still easy to follow. After some gradual climbing and a quick pass though a clump of trees, the trail gets up to the Davis Path.

I headed out the Davis Path towards Boott Spur and into the clouds. Just before Boott Spur, the trail turns right and heads down to Montalban Ridge. Before long you start to duck back into the trees. This area saw some heavy damage during Tropical Storm Irene a few years ago, but it was all cleaned up by now. The trail was pretty easy going.

Once down to the Isolation Trail, it becomes a pretty gradual ridge walk to get to the Mt. Isolation Spur. Through here I came across another Ruffed Grouse. This one was more timid of humans than yesterday's, but kept flying down the trail rather than ducking into the trees.

Once at the Spur for Mt. Isolation, I headed up the short and steep trail. The summit was completely socked in with clouds and there was absolutely no view. This was a shame since there is a great one here. After a change of socks, it was time to head back out the way I came. The climb up to Boott Spur was different since normally the climbing is at the start of the hike, but it went pretty easy. Once up on the ridge, views were even more limited than before. I could only see one or maybe two cairns ahead on the trail at best. Good thing it's easy to follow through here.

Once back to the hut, I adjusted gear quickly and made the short climb up to Mt. Monroe. It went quick and provided the same socked in view that I had on Mt. Isolation. After a few quick photos, I headed back down the trail to the hut again.

At the hut I put on dry clothes and grabbed a book to read. While reading, I couldn't shake a chill I had developed. While hiking I was warm enough, but the cool temps and constant moisture from being in the clouds had caught up with me. After laying under my blanket for a while still with the chill, I finally went and drank a couple cups of hot chocolate and that seemed to do the trick and warmed me back up.

Camel Trail

Davis Path

Mt. Isolation summit

Limited visibilty near Boott Spur

Mt. Monroe summit

DAY 3

Distance: 13.3 mi.
Elevation: 1,328 ft (overall) 3,888 ft (total)
Time: 1:04 (Washington) 3:10 (Jefferson) 4:56 (Adams) 6:25 (Madison) 8:48 (Trail head)
Trails: Crawford Path, Trinity Heights Connector, Gulfside Trail, Six Husbands Trail, Mt. Jefferson Loop, Lowes Path, Star Lake Trail, Osgood Trail, Valley Way

For the last day of this trip, the plan was to leave the hut in the morning and hike over all the peaks in the northern presidentials to the Appalachia trail head. After a filling breakfast and topping of the fluids in my pack, it was time to head out. The hike up Mt. Washington went will with a good trail to climb. It was still early so there was no line of people at the summit sign when I got there. So I grabbed a photo and headed inside for a bit. After enjoying the great views for a bit, I knew I needed to head out. So down the trail I went.

Just after passing the cog tracks, I could hear the steam train coming up just about to crest the section of mountain nearby. I quickly got to where I could take a picture. After heading back down the trail, two diesel trains came up as well. Looks like it will be a busy day for the trains and at the summit. While I know Mt. Clay has an awesome view into the Great Gulf, I went around the back side to hit a section of trail I haven't before and to save some effort.

I then worked up the trail towards Mt. Jefferson. At the loop trail junction I continued straight to start going around in order to get more trails I haven't been on yet. I used the upper section of the Six Husbands Trail to get up to the summit. It was getting a bit cloudier at this point, but the views were still good.

From here it was the quick descent of Jefferson to the long gradual ascent of Mt. Adams. This portion went smoothly, even though I was getting a bit tired at this point in the 3 day hike. I made a stop at Thunderstorm Junction, and then headed for the summit. Adams is my favorite of the northern presidentials, but this trip to the summit was ruined somewhat by a group of younger kids that decided burning some trash and tree bark right at the summit was a better way to keep warm than bringing the right gear (hint: it isn't). The leader of their group also didn't follow through when he told them to put it out (and he should have had them better prepared).

So after a shorter visit than planned to Mt. Adams, I headed down the steep Star Lake Trail towards the hut. The trail is steep and a bit rocky, but I made good time down. At the hut I took a break and grabbed some more fluids. I was getting even more tired by this point, so I actually thought about skipping Mt. Madison. But since I was doing well on time and I didn't want to make a trip back up here for just this peak, I slowly made my way up. The trail isn't overly hard, I was just tired and a bit slow. Once at the summit, I was glad I didn't skip it. I enjoyed my time up there and called my wife to see where she was since she would be meeting me at the trail head.

After more views and resting, I headed back to the hut to then head down the Valley Way Trail. It was hard to keep going past the hut as the Thanksgiving style meal they were cooking looked and smelled real good. The hike down went well. The trail is a bit steep in it's higher sections, but it gets easier as you descend. Even knowing how long the trail was, it did seem to take longer than I would have expected. Once at the trail head it was just a matter of waiting for my wife to show up. We'd have something to eat in Gorham before driving back to my car and then heading home.

Headed up Washington with scattered clouds

View from Mt. Washington

Steam cog headed up

Adams from Jefferson

Madison from Adams

Looking back from Madison

Google Earth representation of the 3 day hike

TOTALS
Distance: 33.01 mi.
Elevation Gain: 12,275 ft (total)
Time: 25:41

The hike was fun and I'm glad I did it the way I did. I've now done both directions and can use that for future planning reference. The weather could have been better, but given it was the Presidential Range, it also could have been much worse. I saved some weight in my pack on this hike versus my Pemi-Loop hike, but I still need to get lighter when doing long treks like this. Hikes like this just give me more respect for those that can do them in a single day.

For all the pictures from the hike, just go HERE

Monday, December 22, 2014

Old Speck Mtn (4,170 ft) 8-10-14

Distance: 6.325 mi.
Elevation: 2,716 ft (overall) 3,038 ft (total)
Time: 3:27 (Summit) 5:18 (total)
Trails: Eyebrow Trail Trail, Old Speck Trail

Today's hike would be hike number 2 of the weekend. After picking up my tent early and having breakfast, I left the campground to hike Old Speck Mountain on the way home. Before I was even really out of town, I noticed a man holding a big camera lens standing next to his car a ways off the road. Sure enough, there was a moose. Not wanting to disturb another photographer, I kept going. For this, I was rewarded with my own moose right next to the road. I was able to turn around and get a couple of shots before she walked off, but nothing special. Two moose in the first 10 minutes, hopefully this would mean a good day. The funny part is that Route 16 between Rangeley and Stratton becomes an almost steady stream of traffic in the evening with people looking for moose. And here I am just getting an early start (without looking for moose) and I see two of them easily.

Roadside moose

At the trail head you can see the first obstacle I was planning on today, The Eyebrow. It's a pretty big rock face, luckily the trail leads around it. Things start off gentle and you take a right at the first intersection just after the start of the trail. After a bit more distance, the trail hits the steep portions. Right off you are presented with a section with posts and a cable for a hand hold to help you climb up. With the dry conditions today, I didn't need them.

Cables

Further up you come to an open rock slab you must cross. Metal rungs help you up the left side to more metal rungs you can hold on to in order to walk across. Then there are even more rungs to come down the far side a bit to reach the ladder which leads you into the woods. Again, with dry conditions this wasn't any real issue. A bit of water on the far side just meant a couple cautious steps. Back into the woods you soon come to more rungs that are placed well to be used as steps to go up over a steep section of rock. Before long the trail levels out some and works across the top area of the eyebrow to come to a view point at the far end. This provides a nice view down into Grafton Notch and up to the summit.

Crossing the open rock

Hazy view into Grafton Notch

The only bad thing about this portion of trail is that it turns down to the left after the viewpoint and drops nearly 100 feet in elevation before it comes back to the main trail. I was almost starting to think I missed the intersection and was headed the wrong way. It's nothing big, only some extra effort after you just climbed a steep trail. Steadily gaining elevation, the trail is pretty nice without any major difficulties. For portions it goes over some of my favorite type of terrain... exposed open rock that is still in the trees. Further up, the trail gets back to being rocks and dirt like you would expect. There are a few small humps in the trail that make for small PUDs, but they don't add up to much at the end of the day.

One of my favorite types of trail

Getting higher up the mountain, the trail seems to get a bit steeper, but still not to a difficult degree. I think it was mostly that I had hiked the day before and today was on the humid side with rain storms possibly developing. After a couple short breaks and a small view point, I was at the intersection near the summit. Only 0.3 miles left of easy mostly level trail. At the summit, there is a small opening with a partial view. To get the best views though, simply climb the fire tower which is in real nice condition. At the top, you can see for miles in all directions.

Summit fire tower

The view to the west shows a rain storm

Baldplate Mtns to the north

Presidential Range in sight

From the fire tower I could see that there was a small rain storm to the west near the state line. Possibly coming this way some, this made a few hikers staying at the Speck Pond Campsite nervous as they had left their tents open. After a short chat with them, they headed quickly down the trail to beat the rain. While more clear to the north, another storm appeared to be in that direction. It was still a distance away, but that seemed to be the direction the clouds were coming from today. So after enough time to enjoy the views and take it all in, I headed down the trail to try and keep from getting too wet. Shortly after leaving the summit, it sprinkled briefly, then the sun came back out. But further down the mountain, it started to rain again and didn't let up until the trail head. I didn't take many pictures on the bottom half of the hike down due to this. But after being so humid today, the rain felt nice and it wasn't hard enough to really get you too wet. After changing into dry non-hiking clothes at the car, I did hear a rumble of thunder and the rain picked up significantly while I was driving home. Hopefully all the hikers I saw headed up were prepared for this.

The Old Speck Trail section bypassing the Eyebrow Trail wasn't too difficult. Some rocky sections, but generally good footing. Only a couple small brooks to cross through here. Definitely an easier route while also being 0.1 miles shorter.

For all the pictures from the hike, just go HERE

Mt. Abraham (4,050 ft) 8-9-14

Distance: 8.933 mi.
Elevation: 3,074 ft (overall) 3,374 ft (total)
Time: 3:45 (Summit) 6:25 (total)
Trails: Fire Warden's Trail

Today's hike would be the last of 5 hikes I would need to do in the Stratton, Maine area. Feeling Mt. Abraham would be too much to add onto and out and back of Spaulding Mtn and Sugarloaf Mtn, I came back to get this peak along and came in from the east side on the Fire Warden's Trail. Parking is at an old bridge crossing (washed out) of Ladd Brook along Rapid Stream Road. The road was rough in places, but with care even a low clearance car such as mine would make it fine.

You now park right at the river crossings since the bridges have been washed out. The first crossing was easy right where the bridge use to be. Another 100 feet later is the second crossing, and this was easiest about 30 ft downstream. The two hikers who left just before me determined this and it was easy for me to watch them as I caught up. You then almost immediately turn right on an old logging road which is now actively used as an ATV/snowmobile trail. You follow this for about 1/2 mile and then come to the old trail head.

First river crossing

From here, the trail is very easy. You gain only about 1,000 ft of elevation in the first 3 miles. There are a couple brook crossings, but nothing difficult or too big. The hardest part was a muddy section around a large blow down and making sure you are on the proper trail in a couple places where it seems to have been rerouted. I found if there is confusion, take the route to the left on the way to the mountain. There was one spot that from the new portion of trail I could still see a blaze on the old portion. I see this as the most like place to make a mistake.

A casual walk in the woods to start

While walking through this section of forest, at one point I heard noise in the bushes just ahead of me. Then 2 small dark animals started to climb trees about 20 feet from me. My initial thought was "oh crap, where's mom?" thinking they might be bear cubs. Then they climbed higher and I could see that they had long tails, certainly not bears. Whew. It turned out to be 2 Fishers that were trying to run off. One picked a good tree and was able to climb high up it. The other picked a dead tree that had broken off so he couldn't go very high. But by the time I got the camera out, he had managed to find a better one and get further up. No pictures today, but still a memorable event.

Eventually you cross a brook near the old Fire Warden's Cabin which has been removed and is now replaced with tent sites. From here, the trail turns almost 90 degrees and heads right up the mountain. The real climb starts now without much for switchbacks. Through here was the worst section for blow downs. A good day of clearing could be spent on this trail. There was even one large blow down that require a large difficult detour that is starting to turn into a herd path. In all reality though, it doesn't take too long before you start to come out of the trees.

Easy to avoid blow down

Coming out of the trees

While the summit sits at only 4,050 ft, Mt. Abraham has the second largest alpine area in the state (behind Katahdin), so you will be out of the trees quite a bit on this hike. The trail is easy to follow over the rocks with cairns and some stone work done. There are some places that require paying attention to your footing though. Keeping steep to start, the trail will go back into small patches of trees at times as it levels off a bit before the summit. There was plenty of blueberries along the trail today and I was able to have a nice snack on them before the final push to the summit. As you get closer to the summit, you can see the remains of an old fire tower that resides there.

View of Spaulding and Sugarloaf from the summit

Summit fire tower

Stone structure at the summit

It was a little breezy at the summit, but it was sunny and mostly clear. There were also great views in all directions. Following another hiker's ideas, I normally say that if there is a fire tower, you need to climb it. But seeing as I was already above the trees and the structure had most of guy lines broken and a couple braces out of place, the short tower didn't seem worth it. There was also a small stone structure at the summit. It had a decent roof on it that was partially covered in rocks, but wasn't very tall. There was a simple opening to get into it, but you had to duck to fit in. I didn't venture in as other hikers at the summit said it stunk in there and there was just some trash. I'm curious as to what this was used for though. Maybe A quick place for the wardens to retreat to when a storm wouldn't make it safe to hike down the mountain.

Saddleback peaks to the west

Redington and Crockers to the west

Brook near the old cabin site

The hike down from the summit went quick and easy while seeing a few more hikers headed up. There were no more big animal encounters and no surprises since I had already come up the same trail. This hike was a very nice one and certainly something I would repeat. I do still think though that the best way to get this peak would to do a traverse from Caribou Valley Road over Sugarloaf and Spaulding on the way here. Maybe next time I can convince someone to come with me so I can spot a car.

For all the pictures from the hike, just go HERE